Baie De Taioa, Nuka Hiva and Baie De D’Hakahau, Ua Pou

Monday 6/03/13 16:00 09 21.482 S 140 02.909 W http://maps.google.com/?z=7&t=k&q=loc:09%2021.482S%20140%2002.909W Baie De Taioa, Nuka Hiva and Baie De D’Hakahau, Ua Pou Posting by Barb: Baie De Taioa was probably the prettiest anchorage that we have been at the Marquesa. Once inside the bay you could no longer see the ocean so it was very safe and protected. The east facing pinnacles were magnificent and Dennis did manage to take some good pictures there. There were only 5 boats anchored there and one of the boats, Nyon, belonged to our friends Rick and Kira. Nyon is a 55 year old wood boat that they have refurbished over the last ten years. We arrived in Baie de Taioa shortly before lunch and within an hour we had jumped in the water and started the now weekly task of cleaning the water line on our boat. It is amazing just how fast the algae grow on the boat and how hard it is to scrub off. The next day Rick, Kira, Dennis and I set out at 8 in the morning for the 4.5 hour hike to the world’s third highest waterfall. The hike was breathtaking. It started out with a walk through the village surrounded by flowers and fruit trees. The place was like walking through a garden with all sorts of very unusual plants, at least for us. From there we had to cross over several swollen streams due to all of the rain that had fallen on the last couple of days, sometimes the water was waist deep with a pretty strong current. We walked through an overgrown forest which contained trees with twisted roots and thick foliage. Some of the trail went through ancient ruins with stone lined paths using boulders that would have taken dozens of natives to carry and ruins of the foundations of the Polynesian people that had lived there hundreds of years ago. All of it over grown with thick trees and vines. As we got near the falls the trail started meandering through a canyon and the wet mist intensified until we felt like we were in perpetual rain surrounded by lush green foliage. We could only see the top of the falls as the base was behind a canyon. Dennis and Rick attempted to swim to the base. They disappeared around the canyon bend and it left Kira and I wondering what was going on. I asked Kira how long we would have to wait before we could go ahead and eat their portion of the lunch! They returned after 10 minutes unable to get to the base as the water was too deep and the current was too strong. They encouraged Kira and me to jump into the murky water as they said it was very refreshing. Kira jumped in but as I am not a water baby and nervous about the large fresh water eel I saw the day before, I opted to sit and watch. Suddenly rocks started to tumble into the little pool from the overhanging cliffs and all three were very, very quick scrambling out of the water. We should have probably heeded the posted ‘falling rock’ warning sign! On the way back, as we were crossing one of the streams, Kira and I spotted an eel. It swam towards me and it had plans to go between my legs if I had not screamed and jumped. I had a premonition that I would meet the eel on our hike! We got back around 2:00 in the afternoon and had to row back to the boat as our dingy motor had died on the way in to shore. No fear, Dennis had it working within the hour after he cleaned the carburetor. We had supper on Nyon, Rick cooked us a wonderful spaghetti dinner, and we were relieved that we didn’t have to cook. In the morning we said our goodbye’s with the hopes of meeting up with Nyon in the Tuamotu atolls and headed south towards island of Ua Pou thirty miles away. Baie d’Hakahau in Ua Pou was a very rolly anchorage which required a stern anchor. The view of the town included a back drop of several beautiful spires which only made themselves visible occasionally due to the cloud cover. We of course hiked through the town and scoped out all the grocery stores. Dennis is such a wimp when it comes to the heat. That is our normal routine now at every anchorage. We had a great meal at Rosalie’s restaurant and we ordered our meal with the help of the Custom’s officer, who said he eats there everyday. He spoke relatively good English and suggested we order the ginger beef and the tuna tartar, both dishes which were not on the menu designed for the tourists. While we were in Baie d’ Hakahau I took advantage of the good internet connection and uploaded pictures to the blog. It meant staying up most of the night to get the best internet connection. During the day we hiked around town looking for the few supplies we needed. What we needed most of all was fruit, because we know that it is not going to available in the Tuamotu. They don’t seem to sell fruit in the stores because everyone has fruit trees in their yards or know someone to get it from. We managed to arrange to have a huge bunch of bananas, a dozen pamplemousse, dozen mangos, and a half a dozen unknown fruits delivered to the pier. After securing them to the radar arch, Dennis continued to work on the head again and it still is not fixed. So we said goodbye to the Marquises and started our 425 mile sail to the Tuamotu Archipelago islands.

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