MARIA ISLAND
Click here for Google Map Link to Maria Island anchorage
Wombats everywhere
Triabunna offered ferry services to Maria Island so it only made sense for us to make that our first stop. Not by ferry but on Landfall. The only way to travel around Maria Island is by walking or by bike (there were some spectacular bike trails). And the only accommodation was tent campsites. Maria Island was a historical convict stations site and operated in the mid 1800’s to punish secondary offenders and runaways. 
We were learning that much of Australia’s history included tales of crime, punishment, hardship and survival in harsh but beautiful places. There was no getting off this island alive. We anchored in Chinaman’s Bay, quite a distance from the main convict station so we didn’t get to see that but we did walkaround and we were welcomed by many, many Wombats that came out to feed late in the evening. These furry little creatures were more interested in feeding than in running away from us. It appeared to us that there were more Wombats than what food was available. They were everywhere and the grasslands were pretty bare.
CLICK HERE TO SEE OUR WOMBAT VIDEO
Beautiful salt water vegetation. Site of one of the convict stations
FORTESCUE BAY
Click here for Google Map Link to Fortescue Bay anchorage
Fortescue Bay anchorage
A few of the 2500 steps on the trail
The Cape Hauy track started from the bay campground and while we were there, we had a cool, sunny and calm day so we decided to do the 4-hour return track. The well-maintained track wound itself through a variety of terrain and onwards to magnificent views of steep cliffs and rock formations. A few young boys with rock climbing gear passed us and we later learned that the “Candlestick” and “Totem Pole” sea stacks were popular areas for climbing and absailing.
Long way to go
We found it a strenuous track and I counted well over 2500 steps but it was worth the spectacular scenery. We were looking forward to a shower at the campsite but by the time we were back the office was closed and we couldn’t buy the necessary tokens. Hot showers would have to wait for maybe the next anchorage.
And a long way down too!
If you look closely you can see the rock climbers line
PORT ARTHUR
Click here for Google Map link to Port Arthur MAST mooring anchorage
We motored sailed to Port Arthur and grabbed a MAST mooring. These are moorings placed in various locations by Marine and Safety Tasmania and are well maintained. Their website indicates the locations for the moorings and the last time the moorings were inspected. Technically boats are only supposed to be on the moorings for 4 hours but when you are the only boat in the bay it really doesn’t matter how long you use the mooring. 
The main reason for anchoring here was to visit historic Port Arthur, a penal settlement. Port Arthur started as a small timber station but it grew to be an important penal location for the colonies. This included convicts from Britain who could no longer be sent to the Americas after the American War of Independence. 
As part of the tour package we got to enjoy a guided walking tour and a one hour boat cruise to Dead Man’s Island (where many of the dead were buried) and to Port Puer (where juvenile convicrts were housed). Port Arthur also had a devastating historical event which took place on April 1996. A young Hobart man armed with a high-powered rifle drove to Port Arthur and went on a shooting rampage killing 35 people and injuring 37 other people. The historic site was a story of many people, places and moments.
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Click here for Google Map Link to Stewarts Bay
After a couple of nights here we tried to head further South but the wind picked up and it was on the nose so we returned to the bay but anchored in Stewart Bay. A beautiful protected little bay and while we were here we experienced record breaking heat wave of 37C. We didn’t bother to get off the boat just enjoyed a leisurely day while waiting for the winds to come from the North again.
NUBEENA, PARSONS BAY
Click here for Google Map Link to Nubeena anchorage
There wasn’t much to see or do in Nubbena, Parsons Bay but our motor sail by Cape Raoul was spectacular. We had some fog and drizzle but not much wind so we could stay close to shore. There is a very popular Three Capes track which takes several days and it’s 48km of breathtakingly beautiful coastline. We experienced Tasmania’s magnificent coast sitting in our cockpit. 
It was calm enough that we were even able to motor between Tasman Island and Cape Pillar. I found it to be a little nerving and daunting as I watched the depths go from +100 feet to less than 25 feet and towering rock cliffs on both sides of the boat. Leave it to Denny to even attempt such a feat, nerves of steel!
We visited the museum where we learned all about Old Tom, the killer whale. He was thought to be the leader of a pod which helped the whalers by herding the baleen whales into the bay. The killer whales were then rewarded with the tongue and lips as their share of the kill. We rented a car and did some day trips in search of the elusive Platypus and Koala. Never did see either one but we did manage to come across a Wombat road kill and stopped to have a look as we were desperate to see some Aussie wildlife.
In the end Bill had to get a flight to Tasmania as his time was running out and Ella (his wifey) was due to arrive soon. He booked flights from a nearby airport with a final destination to Burnie, Tasmania. On his last evening we had a couple of drinks on another cruising boat. It was priceless to see Bill’s face as the local sailor exclaimed he had never heard of an airport in Burnie and further more would never fly there. Bill grudgingly left the next day but we had agreed that if we ever got a weather window we would try and meet again in Tasmania. As it would have it, Bill inadvertently forgot his wallet on Landfall so a meeting up with them in Tassie was a definite. 
Click here for Google Map Link
After 10 days of together in Ile Uerie we headed back to Noumea to re-provision and get propane.
Ilot Koure offered some beautiful pristine white beaches and great snorkeling. It was later that we learned there had been a fatal Bull shark attack but that had happened over 3 years ago. But considering that in the last 10 years there have been 10 shark attacks of which half were fatalities, the likelihood of coming face to face with the great beasts is unlikely. It’s still always a little unnerving for me getting in the water. Denny drove a piece of coral up into his heel while beaching the dinghy so what little snorkeling the weather permitted, I did alone.
We 
made it back to Anse Majic and grabbed a mooring and spent a day with Cava. Shortly after our arrival they found a great weather window for NZ so, sadly, we parted ways. Kindred Spirit had already left for Australia and Bravo would follow suit shortly. And that’s cruising life, meeting amazing people but always saying hello – goodbye. We did another great uphill hike and were amazed at the diverse colors and terrain from the rest of the anchorages in New Caledonia, mainly the red clay deposits due to the extensive mining in the area. We also found a really neat, hidden little paradise that offered a 
fresh water shower, although it was a cold one. It was also a great place to do hand laundry. 
Yes it is living the dream hand washing clothes by hand and cold showers where and if you can get one!
The hike brought us to some beautiful waterfalls and to a unique swimming hole with overhanging rocks and pristine clear water that just beckoned us to jump in. Denny took all his clothes off and went in first and was cheered on by a hiker that appeared out of nowhere. It took some convincing for me to follow him mainly because of the cold water but also some inhibition, of which Denny has none. After all the cold water dips we were told of a nearby natural hot spring and it wasn’t hard to find. A gorgeous little man made concrete pool fed by fresh water and a hot spring. We had the warm pool all to ourselves!
We arrived at our meeting point early to make sure the tour guide was ok with us joining the group. Signs of the active volcano were everywhere as we spotted kids enjoying warm water baths caused by hot water flowing into high tide pools. The hot springs nearby were used for bathing and cooking.
It was our first inkling that what we were doing was not on the up and up. We were aware that the government had taken over the rights to take people for the volcano tours and that the whole expedition was very expensive with limited time to see the eruptions. But we had tagged along to an already scheduled tour and had been under the impression that it was an authorized one. Denny and I had come too far to turn back and the young guide seemed very knowledgeable and experienced.
Denny quickly setup the tripod and camera and proceeded to take pictures but then was told that pictures with flash and Iphones could not be used as the security guards had spotted us and were making their way up. We were taken to an outcropping of rocks and told to hide while the guide went down to possibly bribe the guards to let us wander around! 
The wait was excruciating and we all felt like we were taking part in a commando expedition. Finally the guide returned and advised us that security was staying at the base and we could explore some more but keep camera lights and flashes well hidden. We were given the option to hike to a lookout point which would allow us a better view of the smoldering lava. Only four of us which included Denny and me followed the guide to the higher vantage point. We crawled to the edge and could look down at the molten red lava but before we could get our cameras out Yasur erupted and the wind carried the smoke and dust towards us. We couldn’t breathe, 
we couldn’t see and had to make a quick exit out of there. I hung on to the guide and with eyes closed, stumbled back to the lower viewing point. Denny wasn’t as lucky and he had to make his own way down with tear filled eyes. We took some time to get our breath back and refocus our eyes before we were given the instruction that it was time to leave. One thing was for certain, we were not going to descend without the use of our torches. We were assured that the route we were taking down was on the opposite side of the security gate and torches could be used so long as we kept them pointing down directly in front of us. The way down was just a mountain of fine ash and sand and we slid, ran, stumbled down the volcano. W
Little did we know that our drive back to the beach was going to take an hour and half over some very dubious washed out roads. There were times where the road was the width of the truck and an inch too far over either side could end badly for all of us. We were sitting in the box of the truck, hanging on to whatever we could and hoping the roll cage would offer some protection if necessary. But the driver was experienced and had taken this route many times. Somebody in our group asked our guide if he had conducted these tours very often and his reply was “No, never before!”. He looked at all our horrified faces and he quickly clarified “never with OLD people” as if that should make us all feel better!!
Crab Bay was a little challenging to get into as there was coral everywhere. The little hole we anchored in wasn’t very large with minimal swing room, so we put out a second anchor to keep us from swinging. 
It was still very windy out but we were sheltered and felt no swell. There was a nearby nature reserve with a trail so we decided to do some exploring.
We found somebody who had the experience and knowledge and willing to take us to the volcano Caldera but the weather wasn’t cooperating. There were low lying clouds and it was coming from the wrong direction which would probably hinder our view of the lava lake in the crater once we reached the top. 
We weren’t willing to do the hike without being able to actually see the volcano. We waited for a day but weather wasn’t improving nor did it look good for the next couple of days. However, it was a good sail (motor) window to head back South to the main Island, Efate. There were no available flights from Ambrym to the main Island that Pete and Mel could take in order to catch their connection to NZ so we decided to abandon the Ambrym hike. We hope to come back someday and do it. The night before we left we did see some Dugong swim by the boat and on the day we left Pete, who was in charge of fishing, caught us an Albacore Tuna so we were happy with that. The passage back to the main island Efate was an overnight motor but that was better than a beat against prevailing wind.
and resorts. Pete and Mel had friends that had a little cottage near where we were anchored so they were able to get off the boat for a little while. I did end up with a very nasty infection from a small cut on my ankle that appeared to be nothing at first. The cut became swollen, red and from there the symptoms worsened and I had fever and chills. It was going to be a hospital emergency stop for me but luckily Pete and Mel’s friends had the proper ointment and antibiotics and by morning I was cured. But it does stress the importance of keeping small cuts clean and having appropriate medication for these instances. The outcome could have been very bad for me if appropriate action wasn’t taken quickly.
As the weather settled the kids were anxious to get going so we decided to do a night sail to Mercury Island. None of them had done an overnight passage on a boat so all were excited and all hands on deck. By midnight only Denny was left on watch. I guess the jet lag was still kicking in.
From there it was hand steering to the Hauraki Gulf.
With some leisure time in between.
